Heat + Rain = Adventure!

I know it has been a ridiculously long time since I last wrote, but that doesn't mean things have stopped being interesting here. I still find a new challenge/adventure everyday. I will try to give a few highlights for you over the last few months though, and then we can try to move forward from there.

My last teaser was to tell you about my epic trip to Cape Verde, which really was phenomenal! Probably one of the best vacations in my life thus far. I traveled with my good friends Cameron and Frank, who are both volunteers in the Kedougou region. They are a bit more accustomed to the type of greenery that we encountered in CV but I was blown away by how alive everything was, even though it was May and the hottest time of the dry season. The volunteers there were quick to inform me that it is normally much more breathtaking. Regardless, I thought it was delightful and fell in love with the topography (mountains, valleys, beaches, rocky cliffs). As much as I love Senegal, my region is incredibly flat, with few trees and nothing close to beaches or cliffs. Needless to say, I was a little jealous, but definitely appreciative of the chance to spend time with volunteers who knew the area and who could show us all the best places.

 We spent a few days on the volcanic island Fogo so of course we had to hike up to the base of the vocano (5+ hrs) and then the next morning hike the volcano (4+ hrs). It was beautiful! The valley by the volcano has been turned into a vineyard of sorts with grapes and pomegranates growing out of the nutrient rich soil. I don't have adequate words to describe how wonderful the wine and cheese were there... We were fortunate to have the lovely Rachel Day, a volunteer on Fogo, host us and show us the hike.

 After our epic time in Fogo we didn't know if Santiago could really compete, but it definitely made a great impression. Black sand beaches, mountain villages, caves full of washed up seashells, old colonial tunnels through the mountain that emerge onto a cliff beach that was crying to be explored, flying a kite on top of a mountain, music festivals, climbing inside of The Big Tree, and of course fantastic volunteers showing us countless adventures along the way. I want to give a big shoutout to all the volunteers in Cape Verde. You know how to live the good life while still making a difference. Sorry that Peace Corps closed your country program. Cape Verde is now very dear in my heart and I hope to go back there someday to see the gems of the other islands as well.

Skip forward to late June... RAIN!!! The rainy season came and brought life everywhere! I didn't realize that Kaffrine could be so beautiful, but I was certainly proven wrong. Not only was everything green, but the people became more active. Everyone was working, fields were plowed with the year's crops, and in general people seemed happy to be more active. One tough part about the rainy season though is that because everyone has invested their time and money into their fields, and the crops haven't been harvested yet, Senegal goes through what is known as the Starvation Season. There isn't a lot of money to buy vegetables or meat, and in some of the poorer families they only eat rice and oil at times. I'm fortunate to have a school teacher for my host dad, so he has a steady income to provide for the family during this time. Sometimes it is hard knowing that I'm still eating well when the people I work with (mostly farmers) are struggling to provide more than what they grow themselves. (Strange that I would feel that way here when I know it is far less than what is spent on food in the U.S.) So the big push is to teach people to at least keep a small vegetable garden during that time. My women's groups seemed to do pretty well with that this season and even had enough left to sell in the markets too.

I ended up traveling a fair amount in July and August due to Independence Day celebration in Kedougou, a training about moringa in another subregion, celebrating birthdays, and my friend Toby coming to visit as his close of service (COS) trip after serving 2 years in Cape Verde. We jumped on trampolines overlooking the ocean in Dakar, went kayaking in the Mangroves in Toubacouta, hung out in Kaffrine, and eventually finished up relaxing in Kedougou. Attempted to go to a waterfall, but we both got sick during the bike ride there, so we hung out a campement in the mountains and then biked back the next day. It was still really fun even though we didn't see the falls. (Consolation was that I trashed him at playing rummy. :D) The best part about Kedougou was lounging in hammocks, listening to guitar music and great conversations.

I had to leave early and send Toby back to Dakar by himself because I was supposed to go to a training for all the Urban Agriculture volunteers in Senegal. The training was held in the far north of the country, so it was quite a trek to get there. And since I caught the free PC ride part of the way, I took part in teaching some farmers up there about erosion control. I felt like the information I imparted was well received, though it definitely helped that I had other volunteers there to help me translate. Also, I pulled a muscle in my back while carrying large rocks to create a dam.... The rest of the training was alright, though I was still dealing with being sick, and then my injured back on top of that meant that a fair amount of the information was lost on me and I was irritated that I had traveled so far, not been able to see Toby off, and then was in a position to receive information well. So that was fun. But on the plus side, I did loop all the way around the country in a month. The only sections I missed out on were the middle of the country between me and the north: Linguere, and then the lower jaw of Senegal (really, the country looks like pac man and it is swallowing The Gambia): Kolda/Casamance. I intend to go to every region before I COS so I'm well on my way!

Next stop: Mangroves! If I haven't mentioned before, the mangroves are a special type of tree the live in salt water and actually acts as a water purification system so the ecosystem surrounding them are crazy cool. I hear rumor if you are lucky you can even see a manatee there. Anyway, they are being deforested at a rapid rate because the wood is so good at repelling salt water and humidity. So in short, the ecosystem is suffering and as Peace Corps volunteers working to improve the environment, we have a few annual mangrove reforestation projects. The one I attended was about 45 volunteers and a local community working in hand with Oceania to plant 40-45,000 seedlings in the sand at low tide. It was an awesome experience and in a few months volunteers will go back out to count how many survived so we can assess what we should do for next year. And as they like to say in wolof, “Ndank ndank mooy jappe golo ci ñaay” : “slowly slowly you catch the monkey in the fields”

Not long after the reforestation project, I was back in that area for Girls Camp! We had 32 motivated and outstanding girls from all over the region come together for a week of activities focused on health, education and gender development. I was there for half of the days and I loved every minute of it. We were constantly busy running around making sure all of the activities were going smoothly and keeping the girls engaged. I was mostly involved in leading dance, yoga, self-defense, and container gardening. Mostly I was on the physical activity team so by the end of camp I was ridiculously exhausted, but in a good way. The girls were wonderful and it was a tearful goodbye. I'm still in contact with the 5 girls I brought from Kaffrine and I hope that continues.

My sitemate Susan also got married around that time to a wonderful Senegalese man named Souleye and I've really enjoyed hanging out with them and watching the newlywed bliss.

Other than that it has been a lot of farming time. I had a beautiful garden for awhile until a fungal disease decided to wreak havoc. I still got a good harvest out of my corn though! So now I'm in a transitional period as the rains end and the cool dry season has yet to begin. So I've pulled out all the diseased plants and am re-amending the soil with happy natural nutrients and prepping for the next season crops.

That pretty sums up my last few months except when I went to Dakar a few weeks ago to get physical therapy for my back that decided it wouldn't heal after that training. So I did that and my back is slowly improving. I wasn't great to it while in Dakar though because there were too many opportunities for me to actually dance, which was hard to refuse. Even in the med hut (a section of the PC headquarters for volunteers to stay who are receiving medical treatment), there was a male volunteer that was evacuated from Guinea and sent there who happened to be a great salsa dancer. Do you know how hard it is to find a good male dance partner around here? Well anyway, it was great to work out my dancing feet (even if they wanted to refuse by giving me a blood blister on the bottom of my foot) and I restrained myself somewhat to preserve my back. So all in all, a great time in Dakar, and I am actively doing my physical therapy exercises. As long as I can remember to take it easy in the garden too, I'll be fine. :P